In menswear, you can find few things that are as effective and time-efficient as a pocket square when it comes to upgrading an average outfit. Within 10 seconds you can make your outfit a lot more elegant if you know how to fold a pocket square and if you combine it well with the rest of your outfit.
Therefore, in this guide, we’ll show you how to wear them, how to combine them, and how to match them with your shirt, your tie, and your jacket so you look dapper.
Accessories are The Dapper Difference
Accessories are not just an add-on to your outfit, they actually can make it or break it. To achieve something that’s pleasing and flattering, you need to create a harmonious look.
At the end of the day, you have to be comfortable in your skin and comfortable with your outfit and once you’re confident with your choice, it will show and your overall look will be even better than if you are unsure about the combination you chose.
Basic Principles Of Pocket Square Matching
Pocket Square Principles
To start, it’s easiest to go with solid neck tie and a pattern pocket square or do the other way around and you go with a patterned tie and a solid pocket square. The advantage of this combination is that you can pair the solid tie with a number of different pocket squares. For example, this one has many different colors and although none of them is the exact orange of the tie, it creates a harmonious look because it just picks up that color.
If we choose a different pocket square with a crown fold, this is our wool challis polka dot square, you can see again that the orange works well overall. Orange is a great color for fall, winter, and spring outfits because it’s so versatile.
If we use this other pocket square which is an ancient Madder silk, you can first of all create a look with purple, blue, and green that works really well but you can also take the pocket square and maybe just show a different part of it so you can quickly change the look of your ensemble. Overall, it’s very easy to combine your pocket squares in that way.
You can also choose to go with something bold and contrasting which will actually complement your outfit. For example here, take this pocket square with a medallion, it’s a silk wool with a beautiful blue that looks bold by itself, but by focusing on complementary colors within the whole ensemble, it looks great.
If both your tie and your pocket square have patterns, you should avoid going with patterns in a similar size. It will have the opposite effect of giving your outfit a unique flair, instead making things look a bit too studied. You can combat this by choosing a pocket square in a more subdued, neutral color in a point fold for a little bit of intrigue.
That’s how you combine pocket squares and ties with patterns so make sure to go with different sizes in your tie patterns and your pocket square patterns so it all looks well put together. Also, bear in mind that colors too close but not the same will clash and so it helps to have pocket squares in patterns with many different colors rather than a solid color. That being said of course, you can have sometimes a solid pocket square that works really well with a patterned tie because it picks up on one of the colors and it just creates a really good dapper look.
Furthermore, keep in mind the way you fold a pocket square can have a huge impact on the way it looks. For example, for this medallion pocket square, you can have just the medallion showing like so, or you can have just the tip show or you can have something in between which shows part of the medallion and part of the burgundy red tones. Obviously, it’s the same pocket square but you can create three different looks with it.
Matching Patterned Ties with Solid Pocket Squares
Perhaps the easiest pocket square to wear and pair with any ensemble, a white pocket square adds a timeless flare to your jacket pocket. From casual occasions all the way to formal occasions, it’s always appropriate. Whether pairing it with a navy jacket, a navy suit, or any shade of grey, it’s the easiest square to add to your outfit.
The white linen pocket square is a gentleman’s wardrobe staple because it works with any kind of white shirt, you can wear it with a tuxedo, you can wear it to an interview, to a wedding, to a funeral, you name it. It’s a formal look that goes with everything and it’s simply the first one you should have because it goes with so many outfits.
Matching Solid Ties with Patterned Pocket Squares
On the other hand, the combination of a solid tie with a patterned pocket square can be particularly striking. This outfit has an orange knit tie, a green jacket, a pale ivory shirt, and then paired with a patterned pocket square that does not have the exact color tone but it picks it up somewhere in between and creates a harmonious overall experience.
Adding Pocket Squares and Ties to Suits and Shirts
Start with A Suit
When you put an outfit together, you have to consider different degrees of formality. You have to look at the texture of the cloth. For example, you could have a pinpoint jacket, a knit tie, and a bold pocket square in silk. They’re all different so you also have to consider the different color palettes that you combine into your outfit.
Now, the easiest way to combine an outfit that looks great is to start with the suit or the jacket because that dictates where you go. If you have a charcoal suit in worsted flannel, it’s a more formal outfit. If you go with something in a brown glen check, it’s a more casual outfit.
Add a shirt to the Ensemble
Once you have that down, choose a shirt. It’s easiest to choose either a solid white, off-white, or light blue shirt because then you can really go wild with the different ties you wear, pocket squares, and maybe a boutonniere if you want or cuff links.
Add Accessories to Finish
As the third item, you want to choose the tie because that defines what color accents you set and as a fourth, choose the pocket square which complements the tie. Last but not least, you can opt for a boutonniere or the cuff links.
When you’re starting out, keep the ground rules in mind because they help you to create better, more dashing outfits. You don’t want to incorporate more than three different patterns in your outfit otherwise, it easily gets overwhelmed. Of course, there are very dapper men who can combine four or even five patterns in one outfit but that requires a lot of experience, skill, and a good eye. When you’re just starting out, it’s over the top and chances are it looks bad and very odd.
How To Combine a Pocket Square with a Tie, Suit & Shirt – FAQs
Can you wear a tie and a pocket square?
Absolutely! A tie and pocket square are natural pairing accessories, and many men enjoy wearing them.
Can you wear a pocket square with a suit?
Pocket squares can add a dash of intrigue to a suit, making them the perfect accessory to show a little personality. Plus, if you choose to forgo a tie, your pocket square will look just as elegant with an open-collar shirt.
Can you wear a pocket square with a shirt?
While wearing a pocket square in a shirt pocket may look a little affected, there’s every chance you could pull it off if you’re a Dandy soul. Otherwise, keep the shirt and add the pocket square to a sport coat, blazer, or suit jacket instead.
Should a tie match the suit or shirt?
The general rule of thumb is that your tie should be darker than your shirt, and harmonious with your suit or sport jacket. A tie that is lighter than your shirt and suit draws unnecessary attention to you and looks like a bad gangster costume.
What is the best pocket square for a wedding guest?
Wedding guests may be requested to wear a specific color so as not to clash with the wedding party members. That being said, subdued, elegant pocket squares that complement your ensemble will be the best choice if you’re a wedding guest.
Can you wear a white pocket square to a wedding?
While the advice to not wear white to a wedding is generally true for the majority of your outfit, you can rest assured that a white shirt and pocket square aren’t included in this rule. Unless you are requested to wear something specific, a white pocket square and shirt are an excellent choice at a wedding.
Should you wear a pocket square with a dinner jacket?
Dinner jackets really come to life when you add a pocket square to the ensemble. Stick with white to be traditional, or try a deep red as a fun alternative to a carnation boutonniere.
The Suit Pattern Matters
For example, imagine if you have this tie which is a shantung silk tie paired with a pocket square. It’s a good combination with a more subdued, small pattern like the houndstooth featured in the suit below. However, the same tie paired with a Glen Plaid suit might be a bit bold, and you could run afoul of pattern clashing. There would be too much going on.
Keep Accessories Simple & Plain When Wearing Bold Shirts
The same is true when you decide to go with a bold shirt such as this green and white striped one or something in orange. If you do that, try to stay in the same color palette roughly or go with something darker. For example, with a green and white striped shirt, a dark solid navy tie or a knit tie is best. With the orange striped shirt, you can go with an orange knit tie but something solid.
Wear Patterned Pocket Squares With Solid Suits
On the other hand, if you have a navy solid jacket or navy gray jacket, something with a little pinpoint pattern, you can really be much bolder with your pocket square and with your tie. That is where we suggest the 10 clothing items every man must have. You should invest in a dark suit and in items that you can pair with lots of accessories because accessories are a lot less expensive and you create a lot more different looks.
Why Should You Invest In A Pocket Square?
After all, it doesn’t serve any functional purpose other than making you look great. As you just saw, the pocket square can really give your entire outfit a different look and feel, and it’s just a little piece of fabric that you can fold in a few seconds and it can take an otherwise average outfit and make it look awesome.
Master the Fold
Knowing a range of pocket square folds can make a huge difference on the overall look of your outfit as well as expanding the amount of use you can get from just one pocket square. To learn different pocket square folds, head over to this video.
On top of that, a pocket square has the ability to tie entire outfits together that otherwise may not work really well. Usually, a pocket square achieves that effect by having a number of different colors that pick up one in the outfit and then tie it together in an elegant manner.
You can also get a pocket square with color-contrast edges. The advantage is you can either wear them with the color or you just fold them so you can’t see the color; that way you can get two pocket squares in one.
Nothing wrong with buying a matched set as long as you DON’T wear them together. Mix them with other items. A suit or jacket without a pocket square is a mortal sin in the church of the dandy.
I still prefer a plain linen handkerchief, but really hate that “T.V.” Fold. It looks like something from the Ed Sullivan Show.
yes, plain linen handkerchief
Could you please give some guidelines on different cloth and their appropriate pocket square sizees.
Wool/Linnen/Silk/Cotton?
Wool ones will typically look more “in season” in cooler weather with heavier suiting, and linen (other than a plain white one which is good at any time) in warmer weather. As for sizes, you’ll often find them in the 12″-14″ range, which is about right.
The thing I’ve learned about pocket squares (other than WEAR THEM) is to learn all the rules and then totally discard them. I’ve gotten to the point where I’ll dang near just grab a square at random if I’m not wearing a tie and haphazardly stuff the thing in… and it usually works. You can always change the exposure (more or less showing) to tone down crazier ones or accentuate one that REALLY works with the jacket.
Squares are such a simple thing, and yet they can really MAKE the outfit. They can really break up the monotony of a solid suit and make it look complete.